It all started in Portofino. In the province of Genoa, Portofino is a former fishing village turned glossy upmarket resort. The harbour fizzes and glitters. It is crowded with lithe tanned bodies, statement handbags and bare backs. I discern the occasional American accent, although it’s owner is not your typical fanny-pack tourist. It’s all Ralph Lauren catalogue families twisting lobster linguini around forks received by Amorone stained lips. Music flits through the air from the jaded mouths of moustachioed restaurant singers. We bid them goodbye and sail away from Portofino to the small hamlet of San Fruttuoso.